Man with his burning soul
Has but an hour of breath
To build a ship of truth
In which his soul may sail—
Sail on the sea of death,
For death takes toll
Of beauty, courage, youth,
Of all but truth … John Masefield (1878–1967)

Sidewalk Surfing: Old Skating Movies from the 70s

To me and my friends, skating was the thing you did when you couldn’t surf. Something to do on those flat summer days or wind-blown afternoons. Carving long lines on smooth drive ways, flying off steep banks and culverts, feeling the thrill of speeding down a steep hill. But honestly, in the early days skating wasn’t anything…

Deep Impact: Five Reasons Why Surfers Should Care About Global Warming

As a marine biologist I am often asked what is the greatest threat to the oceans. It’s a easy answer: global warming. As a surfer I am surprised how few surfers seem to know, or care, about our assault on the oceans. I am often met with “why should I care” or worse “the surf will get better, so what?”  I feel compelled to speak up as a surfer and a scientist, and the discuss the most recent scientific evidence of what global warming, and more broadly, global climate change, means to surfers and the ocean.

Coming Home

Born on the Navy circuit, moving every 2 years. Home was an elusive concept at best. As life would have it we occasionally doubled back and that place was San Diego. Living there in the’ 60s and ’70s  was a magical experience. Simple, clean, fun, and just right for starting my love affair with the ocean.…

Bandit: Thief of Heart

This is a tough one for me. Really tough. See, Bandit was my dog. I thought he was just another dog but that turned out not to be true. Bandit was the inspiration for this blog because I learned so much from his death he made me me question my ethics, morals and my relationship to…