Tag: Pacific Beach

The Vanishing Canyons of My Youth

It was the Grand Canyon of my youth: deep, dark, and scary as hell. It took me and my 10-year old friends years to conquer our fear of the wilderness in our backyard. They set me on a path in life that serves me to this day. They were the canyons of my youth but they are long gone.

Surfing Crystal Pier: Life as a Grommet

Crystal Pier, 1966 In the long arc of my surfing life my early years remain indelibly etched on my psyche, as is true of most surfers. Why is simple: we are pulled in by the ocean’s allure, rapidly learn her inner-most secrets, measure our courage against her power, but are ultimately humbled by fear. It is the beginning of…

Demise of the Dawn Patrol and the Search for Uncrowded Waves

Dawn Patrol.  N. The act of getting up extremely early – sometimes before sunrise – to go surfing. Searching for uncrowded waves. September, 1970, Pacific Beach,California  You know the drill. Wake up to tapping on my window by my surf buddy, Neal. Dark outside, 4:30 AM. Grab my board and head down to the beach. Riding through…

My Life in Surf Boards

The surf board is an essential part of a surfer’s interaction with waves. Some might say it is the spiritual connection between the surfer and Mother Nature. The size, shape, and style of the board reflects both the surfer’s personality and approach to wave riding as well as the trends in board styles and design over…

Best Years of Our Life: Pacific Beach 1971

It was the best years of our life When we were children remember what it’s like To bring back memories of the good things we once knew To be right, there’s so much we gotta do. — Iron Butterfly, Best Years of Our Life, Metamorphosis ▲ click to hear the music ▲ Listening to Iron Butterfly transports me…

Coming Home

Born on the Navy circuit, moving every 2 years. Home was an elusive concept at best. As life would have it we occasionally doubled back and that place was San Diego. Living there in the’ 60s and ’70s  was a magical experience. Simple, clean, fun, and just right for starting my love affair with the ocean.…