Dr Abalone

Dr Abalone

Marine biology, surfing, and more

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  • Colossus: The Monster 200 ft. Waves of Thalassa

    Colossus: The Monster 200 ft. Waves of Thalassa

    Colossus. If you’re a surfer the name will terrify you. Although it is a fictional surf break on a fictional planet in my book Songs of Thalassa, it is the giant of all monster breaks. The largest wave in the galaxy. Cortes Bank and Nazaré all in one.

    October 12, 2020
    Science, Surfing
  • What Lies Beneath: the mutant slab of Shipstern Bluff

    What Lies Beneath: the mutant slab of Shipstern Bluff

    For a long time is was a myth. Both a dream and a nightmare, A perfect mutant slab far off the trail. A slab of epic proportions. It’s Teahupoʻo, arguably the gnarliest wave in the world, on steroids. Welcome to Shippies.

    October 5, 2020
    Marine Biology, Surfing, Surfing Ecology
  • Armageddon

    Armageddon

    The orange-red sun glows in the crimson fog. Ash rains down, the smell of smoke on the air. The streets are sparse, only a few walking cautiously with black face masks, looking sinister. The setting for a futuristic dystopian scientific fiction novel? Unfortunately no, it’s now.The future of our nightmares is with us. Armageddon? Not…

    September 9, 2020
    Environment, Life, Marine Biology
  • Do Plants Have Souls?

    Do Plants Have Souls?

    We perceive the world through five senses– sight, smell, hearing, taste, and touch. That is our universe. But maybe it’s more than that. Snakes see heat, dogs smell fear, elephants hear clouds and manatees feel tides. Since perceptions create our world, perhaps there’s another universe we don’t see because we can’t. Enter the world of…

    May 29, 2020
    Animal ethics, Environment, Philosophy, Science
  • Did Rey Skywalker ride a monster 260 foot wave on Kef Bir, the Ocean Moon of Endor?

    Did Rey Skywalker ride a monster 260 foot wave on Kef Bir, the Ocean Moon of Endor?

    When I first saw the giant waves in the latest Star Wars movie, Rise of Skywalker, it took my breath away. Massive, huge and slow-moving they appeared as menacing grey-green monsters creating a terrifying barrier to the ruins of the second Death Star and the key to Rey’s search for Emperor Palpatine. Real or fantasy?…

    May 9, 2020
    Science, Surfing
  • Songs of Thalassa: Chapter 7

    Songs of Thalassa: Chapter 7

    Thalassa. In a future where sporting competitions take place on distant planets, a Hawaiian surfer seeks to reclaim her fame and followers while defeating her nemesis once and for all. But once she hears the songs of the Thalassa, she’ll discover that winning might not be the most important thing.

    April 25, 2020
    Animal ethics, Environment, Marine Biology, Philosophy, Science, Surfing
  • The Akoni Four Challenge: How Surfing Can Teach Us How To Live

    The Akoni Four Challenge: How Surfing Can Teach Us How To Live

    As we strive to survive during the first true global pandemic, we should reflect inward and rejoice in the many gifts we receive from mother Earth that we depend on, especially the sea. Here I focus on the lessons we learn from surfing and how it teaches us to live.

    April 22, 2020
    Environment, Marine Biology, Surfing, Surfing Ecology
  • Songs of Thalassa: Chapter 6

    Songs of Thalassa: Chapter 6

    Orbit. In a future where sporting competitions take place on distant planets, a Hawaiian surfer seeks to reclaim her fame and followers while defeating her nemesis once and for all. But once she hears the songs of the Thalassa, she’ll discover that winning might not be the most important thing.

    April 18, 2020
    Animal ethics, Environment, Marine Biology, Philosophy, Science, Surfing
  • What Lies Beneath: Conquering Fear at Banzai Pipeline

    What Lies Beneath: Conquering Fear at Banzai Pipeline

    PIPELINE. Just the name shoots fear through my heart. Insanely hollow tubes breaking over a shallow coral reef. The steep drop, crazy speed, and all the while the fear of the dark reef gliding below, always reminding you of what happens if you fail. Conquering that fear is the ultimate challenge. And for many years…

    April 13, 2020
    Marine Biology, Surfing, Surfing Ecology
  • Songs of Thalassa: Chapter 5

    Songs of Thalassa: Chapter 5

    Waves of Change. In a future where sporting competitions take place on distant planets, a Hawaiian surfer seeks to reclaim her fame and followers while defeating her nemesis once and for all. But once she hears the songs of the Thalassa, she’ll discover that winning might not be the most important thing.

    April 11, 2020
    Animal ethics, Environment, Marine Biology, Philosophy, Science, Surfing
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