Tag: High School

California Lost: Time Was…

As I have written, moving as a surfer was a bummer, especially when I left California for the east coast in 1974. In this case, we moved near the end of my junior year to northern Virginia where I finished high school.  What I didn’t appreciate was how my mind would respond to the change in scenery. Although…

Coming Home

Born on the Navy circuit, moving every 2 years. Home was an elusive concept at best. As life would have it we occasionally doubled back and that place was San Diego. Living there in the’ 60s and ’70s  was a magical experience. Simple, clean, fun, and just right for starting my love affair with the ocean.…

A Hatteras Odyssey

One of my favorite old surf films is from my last year in High School when I lived on the east coast. During spring break 1975 Dave Bence, Frank Dorenkamp, Pat Fulks and I went on a surf trip in my ’66 VW camper van to Cape Hatteras, North Carolina from Alexandria, VA. Although the…