Category: Surfing

Sidewalk Surfing: Old Skating Movies from the 70s

To me and my friends, skating was the thing you did when you couldn’t surf. Something to do on those flat summer days or wind-blown afternoons. Carving long lines on smooth drive ways, flying off steep banks and culverts, feeling the thrill of speeding down a steep hill. But honestly, in the early days skating wasn’t anything…

Deep Impact: Five Reasons Why Surfers Should Care About Global Warming

As a marine biologist I am often asked what is the greatest threat to the oceans. It’s a easy answer: global warming. As a surfer I am surprised how few surfers seem to know, or care, about our assault on the oceans. I am often met with “why should I care” or worse “the surf will get better, so what?”  I feel compelled to speak up as a surfer and a scientist, and the discuss the most recent scientific evidence of what global warming, and more broadly, global climate change, means to surfers and the ocean.

Coming Home

Born on the Navy circuit, moving every 2 years. Home was an elusive concept at best. As life would have it we occasionally doubled back and that place was San Diego. Living there in the’ 60s and ’70s  was a magical experience. Simple, clean, fun, and just right for starting my love affair with the ocean.…

Early Surfing at Fort Point

One of my most memorable surfing experiences, and possibly one of the most dangerous, occurred at Fort Point in 1973: an unusual surf spot located underneath the Golden Gate bridge in San Francisco. These days, Fort Point is well known as an overly crowded and heavily localized surf spot — not a friendly place to paddle…

A Hatteras Odyssey

One of my favorite old surf films is from my last year in High School when I lived on the east coast. During spring break 1975 Dave Bence, Frank Dorenkamp, Pat Fulks and I went on a surf trip in my ’66 VW camper van to Cape Hatteras, North Carolina from Alexandria, VA. Although the…