Category: Surfing
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Sidewalk Surfing: Old Skating Movies from the 70s
Dr. Abalone skating in 1975. Photo: Neal Unger. To me and my friends, skating was the thing you did when you couldn’t surf; something to do on those flat summer days or wind-blown afternoons. I loved the feeling of carving long lines on smooth drive ways, flying off steep banks and culverts, and feeling the…
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Deep Impact: Five Reasons Why Surfers Should Care About Global Warming
As a marine biologist I am often asked what is the greatest threat to the oceans. It’s a easy answer: global warming. As a surfer I am surprised how few surfers seem to know, or care, about our assault on the oceans. I am often met with “why should I care” or worse “the surf will…
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Coming Home
Born on the Navy circuit, moving every 2 years. Home was an elusive concept at best. As life would have it we occasionally doubled back and that place was San Diego. Living there in the’ 60s and ’70s was a magical experience. Simple, clean, fun, and just right for starting my love affair with the ocean.…
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The greatest surf movies you’ve probably never heard about
I am continually surprised about reactions to my amateur surf films of the 70s and 80s. While living in San Diego in the early 1970s I started borrowing my Dad’s 8mm Minolta film camera and making surf movies. Somehow making movies just clicked with me and I made about 20 short movies between 1972 and 1985.…
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Early Surfing at Fort Point
One of my most memorable surfing experiences, and possibly one of the most dangerous, occurred at Fort Point in 1973: an unusual surf spot located underneath the Golden Gate bridge in San Francisco. These days, Fort Point is well known as an overly crowded and heavily localized surf spot — not a friendly place to paddle…
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A Hatteras Odyssey
One of my favorite classic surf films is from my senior year of High School when I lived in the east coast. During spring break 1975 Dave Bence, Frank Dorenkamp, Pat Fulks, and I went on a surf trip in my ’66 VW camper van and Frank’s Chevy Vega to Cape Hatteras, North Carolina from…
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Here’s the Deal: Why I Blog
Ok, why read my blog? I’ve been thinking about starting one for quite some time and decided that I would like a public space to share my work, my passions and experiences. Although my life has not been extraordinary, and I’m not famous, I have had an interesting life and the opportunity to do some…
